Ode to Oviedo

All eyes (at least all Spanish eyes) were on Oviedo today as the annual Prince of Asturias Awards were celebrated here.

[Wikipedia says: The Prince of Asturias Awards (Spanish: Premios Príncipe de Asturias, Asturian: Premios Príncipe d'Asturies) is a series of prestigious annual prizes given in Spain by the Fundación Príncipe de Asturias to individuals, entities, organizations or others from around the world who make notable achievements in the sciences, humanities, or public affairs. The awards are presented in Oviedo, the capital of the Principality of Asturias at a ceremony presided by Felipe, Prince of Asturias. The Prince of Asturias Awards were established in 1981. A sculpture expressly created by Spanish sculptor Joan Miró is presented to the yearly recipients.]

It was a beautiful day and so Mateo and I went into Oviedo for an early afternoon walk through the city, an outing which I am quite sure will be one of the highlights of the season for us. It was sensational. We weaved our way through the heart of the old town, which was a'buzz with celebration and palpable excitement for the impending appearance of the Queen, Prince and Princess of Spain, as well as the likes of Rafael Nadal, Ingrid Betancourt, Margaret Atwood and the rest of this year's prize recipients. The cobbled streets were filled with people of all ages, gathering to watch and listen to the sea of bagpipers and traditional dance troupes that painted what seemed like every street corner and plaza, their familiar Asturian drum beats and castanets dancing. There were flags of all nations strung between the beautiful buildings and houses lining the main street in the heart of the city. People filled all of the sidewalk cafes and streamed out into the street crowds. It seemed like everyone wanted to be a part of the movement and music-making in the streets. The stone buildings of the old town turned to gold in the autumn light. It was stunning. It felt like the entire city was alive and happy. And terribly proud of being Asturian. What a gift to be a part of it!

City Hall

A view of the Cathedral (where B and I were married)

One of Oviedo's many plazas (above) and the sidewalk along San Francisco Park, one of the places where our walk took us

The streets of Oviedo

A view of the doors to Teatro Campoamor, where the ceremony is held, surrounded by crowds of bagpipers, dance troupes, fans, etc.

Mario and grandson watching the ceremony on television later that evening. (Yes, Mateo looks surprisingly engaged by the televised event.)

Getting his "Tummy Time" On

There is a lot of grunting and attempted elevation on his part and much encouragement and laughter on my part. He doesn't get all that far, but I think--comfortably planted on this colorful blanket alongside him and with my warm mug of morning coffee in hand--that that is just fine for right now.

Cheers to 3 months of this:

The oldest and youngest members of this household have become fast friends. They are, without a doubt, able to bring the best out of each other. It is a real treat to watch.

So, we are grateful and touched to see that our 93 year-old grandfather--one who, in order to entertain himself, I think, regularly fabricates answers to mundane questions, sneaks around the house and spies on the rest of us from corners, hallways and doorways, makes all of his morning and afternoon whereabouts a mystery even though our neighbors always tell us where he has been seen, who is constantly on the look-out for an unrealistically cheap haircut, and who has been known to spoil his appetite for lunch by eating a very late breakfast followed by a glass of white wine and tapas around town-- has the priceless gift of Peter Pan-like magic with our 3 month-old boy.

Daily Gestures

This little one constantly reminds me, too, to look up in wonder.

I love my boys

I've always wanted twins, I just didn't anticipate it happening this way.

Until Christmas

Thank you for your visit and for the pjs, Gram.

We miss you.

Mateo's baptism: the after-party

Mateo with great-grandfather Roberto, in shades

Javier, Mario and Alfonso laughing over traditional Asturian pote (fava bean and vegetable stew)

One of my favorite shots of the day. We love the legs on this little chubster.

Talking over coffee outside of the restaurant on what was an unseasonably warm autumn day.

MCL y sus padres.

how it began

A beautiful shot of Javier and Bernardo entering the church with Mateo in their arms:

The first reading in the mass was Isaiah 11: 1-9. Bernardo picked this one out and we love the image of a child leading God's creatures in a world of new peace. The gospel reading was Mark 10: 13-16. The human tenderness depicted in the scene and the childlike faith encouraged drew us to this reading in particular.

Javier wrote simply beautiful Prayers of the Faithful for the mass, the rough translation of which follows:

"For the Holy Church of God, enrichened by Mateo who has just been baptized and, through that, incorporated into the community of believers; that it will nourish him always with the grace of Christ Jesus, we pray to the Lord...

For all of the newly baptized, that they find in their families and Christian communities habitual support so that they become Christian adults, we pray to the Lord...

For Bernardo and Alexandra, that with the help of Mateo's Godparents, they be the primary educators of little Mateo through their personal life and words, we pray to the Lord...

For the poor of this distressed world, which is to say for "the insignificant of this world" or "the crucified of this world," that we may know to discover in them the grieving face of Christ and to help them come down from their human crosses, we pray to the Lord...

For a more just and fraternal world, in which it be easier to build political peace, especially social and economic peace, we pray to the Lord...

For all those who have already left us their path of pilgrimage towards the Father's house, and for all of the loved ones most dear to Bernardo and Alexandra, who we would have liked so much to be here today, we pray to the Lord...

Lord hear our prayer."

Newly Christened!

We welcomed Mateo into the Catholic Church this weekend! We celebrated his baptism in the church of San Tirso, in the rural Asturian community of Candamo. Our dear friend Javier (the priest who married us 2 1/2 years ago) is the pastor of San Tirso and presided over what was a beautifully intimate ceremony, mass and confirmation of the illuminating Faith in which we hope to raise Mateo. The small church choir, with whom Bernardo and I have shared masses and dinners over the past years, joined us for the baptism and their joyful a capella singing (which included a soul-stirring "Alleluia" and a spirited song which incorporated Mateo's name at the conclusion of the baptismal rite) brought such light into the small chapel.

An especially meaning component of the baptism was when Javier invited each of us in the church to make the sign of the cross on Mateo's head as he did, a sign that we are welcoming Mateo into the Church as a community of believers. Javier told is that it is a gesture that calls back to acts of the earliest Christians. The religious antiquity of our surroundings and the history underlying the sacrament were inspiring and we are so happy to make Mateo a part of it.



The church of San Tirso. The apse dates from the 14th century and the nave from the 17th century. It is nestled in the green hills of Candamo, outside of Oviedo.




Alfonso (Mateo's Godfather), Bernardo holding Mateo, a very happy mama, and Maria (Bernardo's sister and Mateo's Godmother). Mateo is wrapped in the beautiful blanket that Aunt Chrissy made for him, which arrived a couple of days earlier. The stone window to the left of us is original from the 14th century apse of the church.




With Javier and Mercedes (now 6 years old and a perfect alter server during the mass) in the chapel after the baptism.





Celebrating with the choir and members of the town over cookies and mass wine at the door of the church. The choir told us that they see Bernardo and me as family, and Mateo as one of their sons.



The family, outside of the church, with newly baptised Mateo (looking particularly relaxed in this photo.)